The Endless Summer

I finally purchased my first surfboard. A 6'3" Todd Proctor Groveler Shortboard. Used but in good condition. I baptized it in the Atlantic Ocean, Long Beach, on July 2nd... and thus began The Endless Summer. I've never seen that movie, but I think i'll save it for one of those bone-chillin February nights, cause we all know that summer for a working NYC young professional is by no means, endless...

oh, i also have to talk about my close encounter with death. well, ok... maybe the word "death" is too dramatic. Extreme-ness comes close to a better word. anyway, on the day of baptism, I decided to head out into the surf without a leash (that's the device that connects the board to your foot). i figure, big deal.. worst case scenario: i lose my board, it washes up on shore, i go and retrieve it, and then head back into the water, right? i guess i have too much confidence in my swimming abilities, but as i discovered, the surfboard also doubles as a lifesaver, and can be very useful, especially when you're caught between the forces of breaking waves and the rip. with one wipe out and without a leash, my board washes up on shore, completely useless to me as i am pummeled by each passing wave tossed like a rag doll, fighting against the current that wants to pull me back out to sea. after a long, scary struggle, i literally crawl onto shore wheezing and out of breath. on my way home, i stop at the surf shop and buy my leash. lesson learned.

oh geez, i hope i don't sound like one of those extreme types. "dude, i almost died yesterday! EXTREME!!"

happy fourth to everyone! FYI, july 4th is also "friendship" day between the Republic of the Philippine Islands and the United States of America... two opinions: friends and not friends. and holy shit, it's the one year anniversary of my despedida, my last day on the island paradise of Palawan. damn...

hope to see all you landlovers on the beach tomorrow... haha